11 Great Eateries in Portsmouth, Dover, Somersworth and Rollinsford, New Hampshire

One of the reasons I love living in the Seacoast area is that there's always a restaurant I can revisit after a few months to see the changes and try the daily, weekly or seasonal specials.

Starting with Savario's, the Friendly Toast and Caffe Kilim in 1996, when I worked in Portsmouth, my list of favorite places to eat in the city and surrounding area has gone up to 11. They're all excellent in what they do, so I have no favorite to put at the top of this list, or a least favorite to put at the bottom.

1. The Black Bean: Besides the flourishing art community and an indispensable string of shops, this restaurant is mainly what keeps the small town of Rollinsford on the map. Now with a thoroughly upgraded modern look and location, the Bean still adds individuality to the atmosphere with a steady stream of local painting and photography. The food ranges from classic American breakfast fare ("The Usual" is shorthand for eggs, toast and home fries), but on the specials board you will often find unusual recipes put into action by Phil, one half of the legendary local team of Phil and Liz.
2. Dave's Spicy House: Eating Dave's Indonesian buffet-style chicken, pork, fish and beef dishes is something like walking through a two-alarm fire and then sitting down to sip an iced coffee in a perfectly air-conditioned coffee shop. After a full frontal assault of traditional Indonesian spices, somehow the remaining flavor turns sweeter, but not cloyingly so. Vegetarian dishes are available too. If you're tired of tame restaurant fare and want to walk on the wild side, Dave's will do it for you. UPDATE: Dave's closed in early 2011. Dave Lumanauw, let me know what you're up to and leave a comment!
3. Savario's: I discovered Savario's while discovering I wasn't cut out to do real estate in the building next door. Getting a slice of cheese or pesto pizza was the high point of the day. While set in one of the smallest downtown buildings and hours of operation are limited, Savario's offers big flavor in its pies and has an even bigger following.
4. Gilley's PM Lunch: An American classic, this diner car-based eatery has served generations of locals and tourists. First towed daily into Portsmouth's Market Square by horse, tractor and then truck, it was placed in its current location in 1974 and hasn't moved since. While late-night rushes can make it seem like a low-key phone booth jam to the uninitiated, just let the staff keep things moving, and use the outside dining area if you're a little leery of closed spaces. Dogs, burgers, fries (including poutine), and sandwiches make up most of the fare, with sides like bowls of beans, nacho cheese, gravy and 'kraut.
5. Quick To Go: I never thought food from a gas station would taste like it came from a five-star restaurant. Owners Amir and Micheline, aka Michelle, run Quick to Go next to the Tri-City Plaza in Somersworth. Michelle runs the takeout side of the store, making take-home goods and serving an impressive array of sandwiches, from steak and cheese to felafel and shawarma. One friend has another friend who served in Desert Storm, visited the couple's original restaurant in Lebanon, and was delighted to see Michelle is still serving food on the other side of the world.
6. Taste of India: A very affable mid-sized restaurant in downtown Dover, serving a rich variety of Indian fare with a well-built wine and beer list. Everything is delicious, made with maximum flavor, and the buffets are great for the budget-minded diner.
7. Friendly Toast: Despite recent media coverage detailing building code upgrades that had to be made and various other challenges, The Friendly Toast has always been a great place to visit for me. An oasis of bizarre retro in the middle of Portsmouth's paradise for the well-to-do, the Toast offers food from shockingly wholesome (like my favorite, the Matt Sandwich #1) to intentionally lethal (like coarsely salted, chocolate-covered sweet potatoes). Don't expect much more than a brisk waiter or waitress; there will probably be other full tables nearby that are also asking for the server's attention.
8. Caffe Kilim: One of Portsmouth's indie treasures, this freestyling Turkish cafe is a hub for many of the local movers and shakers. Owner Yalcin Yazgan is often on the premises, serving up hospitality, strong coffee, and equally strong and entertaining opinions. The atomic Dancing Goats blend is great for powering a few hours of one's day.
9. The Asia of Dover: If any restaurant could incorporate the serenity of a shrine, this one does a pretty good job, minus the statistically inevitable young family. Low-key lighting and orient-themed booths combine with unobtrusive music and competently prepared food to keep me coming back.
10. Breaking New Grounds: If you prefer a hustling, bustling madhouse to go with your drink, Breaking New Grounds has it going on. Located in Market Square, this large cafe offers plenty of inside seating, and also outdoor seating three seasons out of four. A large variety of coffee, tea and pastries makes it a fine place to buck up caffeine and sugar during the day.
11. Dos Amigo Burritos: This eatery offers burritos that are about as heavy as a normal Sunday paper. Not only does Dos sell BBQ chicken, bean and steak burritos, but the restaurant has more eclectic variants like spinach and tofu, guacamole, "loco" chili, and sweet potato. The fish taco is excellent, and the grilled jalapenos, which are stuffed with cream cheese and diced mushrooms, come with mercifully adequate, spice-abating rice.

So if you're ever in the Seacoast NH area and want to enjoy a tried and true dining establishment, stop on by... just be prepared to wait it out with the locals!